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Cuando aún siguen encontrándose huellas del hediondo choque de nacionalismos contrapuestos que padecieron los Balcanes durante la primera mitad de la década pasada, no está de más volver la vista atrás para recordar dónde empezó todo. Sería de nimios afirmar que la guerra -o guerras, en plural- que desgajó la antigua Yugoslavia como una naranja se debió a un partido de fútbol. No hace falta abundar en los muchos motivos que se coaligaron para desquiciar la situación en aquella desdichada esquina de Europa, pero los que siguen suponen algunos:

-Descomposición absoluta del sistema comunista, del cual en realidad no participaba directamente la Yugoslavia titista (era un 'país no alineado'), pero que contagió las ganas de cambio a muchas 'nacionalidades' dormidas -croatas y eslovenos principalmente- y la resistencia a los mismos de otra: Serbia. Bosnios, macedonios, kosovares y voivodinos también participarían de la gran bacanal de sangre y fuego que estaba a punto de empezar.

-Un partido, el comunista, dirigido desde Belgrado por un nacionalista pan-serbio como Miroslav Milosevic, que dilapidó la aparente 'armonía' entre los pueblos eslavos del sur (léase Yugoslavia) forjada durante las décadas previas bajo la égida del Mariscal Tito.

-Las primeras elecciones multipartitas que se celebran tras casi medio siglo en la República Socialista de Croacia -'Socijalistička Republika Hrvatska', denominación oficial como estado integrante de Yugoslavia-, se saldan en la primavera de 1990 con la victoria de los pro-independentistas, acaudillados por Franjo Tudman. El 'Muro de Berlín' había colapsado por ruina moral y económica sólo unos meses antes. A las banderas de Europa del Este se le estaban cayendo las hoces y los martillos.

Una semana después del inesperado batacazo comunista en las urnas, el 13 de mayo se enfrentan en uno de los últimos partidos de la 'Prva Liga' los dos gigantes del balompié balcánico -con permiso del Partizán-: el Estrella Roja de Belgrado, casi con el título en el bolsillo, viaja ese domingo hasta Zagreb para rendir visita al Dinamo, su más asiduo y odiado rival. Entre los visitantes brillaba una pléyade de nombres conocidos: desde Robert Prosinecki -croata-, al máximo goleador de aquella campaña, Darko Pancev -macedonio- o el nacido rumano Belodebic. Por los locales despuntaba un jovencísimo Zvonimir Boban y su imberbe socio de vanguardia, Davor Suker.

Los serbios llegaron al duelo escoltados por unos 3.000 radicales, al parecer patrocinados y liderados por Zeljko Raznjatovic, uno de los matones más odiados de los bajos fondos belgradenses y que devendría en 'señor de la guerra' durante el conflicto que estalló sólo dos años después. Su apodo: 'Arkan'. Las escaramuzas entre los 'Delije' (tíos duros, o héroes, en serbio), peña del Estrella Roja, y componentes de los 'Bad Blue Boys' del Dinamo se sucedieron a lo largo del día en distintos puntos de Zagreb. Por supuesto, en la misma cazuela salpimentaban los ultras su antagonismo deportivo con dosis de hostilidad política... Demasiado para no provocar una digestión difícil.

Así llegó el momento del partido en el 'Maksimir Stadion', con cabida para unos 30.000 aficionados. A falta de una hora para el silbatazo inicial, entre 15.000 y 20.000 hinchas se distribuían por sus gradas. En un fondo, los 'BBB'; en sus antípodas, los 'Delije'. Estos últimos encienden la mecha con cánticos de "Zagreb es serbia" o "Te asesinaremos, Tudman". Enfrente responden con lemas de parecida tenor pero opuesta letra. El ambiente se caldea. En ese instante, los radicales del Estrella Roja comienzan a arrancar vallas publicitarias y asientos y los lanzan contra los seguidores locales más cercanos. La policía, mayoritariamente serbia, no actúa. Los 'BBB', indignados, pasan a la acción. Los preliminares de un simple partido de fútbol rozan la batalla campal de magnitudes inciertas. Ahora ya lo de menos es el deporte: ¿cómo se puede evitar la tragedia? Los jugadores del Estrella Roja se refugian en los vestuarios.

Los hasta ese instante pasivos agentes del orden cargan contra los ultras del Dinamo cuando éstos saltan al terreno de juego con intención de cruzarlo y atacar a sus homólogos de la capital, "invasores serbios" que profanan el "suelo sagrado" del Maksimir. Son necesarias porras de madera, refuerzos con coches acorazados y cañones de agua. Desde las gradas, los fanáticos del anfitrión responden con bengalas al tiempo que esgrimen la ilegal bandera croata y su escudo ajedrezado. Mientras tanto, los serbios atacan con cuchillos a los pacíficos espectadores locales que los rodean. Los gases lacrimógenos -utilizados desesperadamente por la policía- surten su efecto y vacían el núcleo de los 'BBB'.Un colchón arde sobre el tartán que rodea la cancha. Tras una hora de disturbios, un silencio trágico reina en el estadio. Varios centenares yacen a uno y otro lado, heridos por arma blanca, policontusionados o intoxicados al inhalar gas policial.

El partido finalmente no se jugó, aunque sí hubo un puntapié famoso aquella tarde. No se lo propinó ningún futbolista al balón... sino a un policía. Entre la marabunta previa, Boban golpeó en incómodo escorzo a un agente que apaleaba a un 'BBB' encogido sobre el césped (patada luego inconscientemente repetida por Eric Cantoná con la cabeza de un seguidor del Crystal Palace como diana). "Allí estaba, una cara conocida preparada para arriesgar su vida, carrera y todo lo que la fama pudiera implicar... todo por una causa, un ideal: Croacia", proclamaría más tarde el talentoso futbolista. El agente que recibió su patada no era serbio, sino bosnio, y al cabo de los años le perdonaría.

Contra Boban se abrió inmediatamente un archivo policial. Fue visto como un héroe en Croacia y un villano en Serbia. Sería condenado a seis meses de sanción deportiva que le impidieron defender los colores de Yugoslavia en Italia'90 -sí, la selección que apeó a España de los cuartos de final-. Por su parte, el fútbol yugoslavo, como el propio estado, recibieron un golpe fatal aquella tarde primaveral en Zagreb. La 'Prvo Liga' sólo se disputaría una temporada más con participación croata y eslovena, y a partir de entonces iría restando participantes hasta la última escisión montenegrina de Serbia, en 2006. Aquella liga 1989/90 reposa hoy en las vitrinas del Estrella Roja, que al año siguiente repetiría con el último gran torneo doméstico de los Balcanes, y que además levantaría la Copa de Europa al cielo de Bari contra el Olympique marsellés. Ese mismo verano, Croacia y Eslovenia se declaraban independientes. Unos meses después comenzaba la guerra. Pero esa ya es otra historia. ¿O no?

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"El partido que nunca se jugó será recordado, al menos por los aficionados al fútbol, como el inicio de la Guerra Patriótica, y casi todos los que lo vivieron coinciden en señalarlo como una clave para la causa croata", se leía en el 15 aniversario de la algarada en el diario 'Vecernji List', de Zagreb. La batalla del Maksimir continuó hasta 1995 en las trincheras. Muchos 'BBB' y 'Delije' volverían a verse las caras, esta vez como miembros del Ejército de Croacia y los paramilitares serbios de 'Arkan', respectivamente. Hoy, un monumento a las puertas del estadio recuerda a los 'Bad Blue Boys' caídos por Croacia y sus compañeros los evocan cada 13 de mayo en una conmemoración revestida de patriotismo. Por su parte, desde Belgrado insisten en acusar a los croatas de haber preparado el incidente. Hay heridas que tardan en cicatrizar.

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